Me: “Tres difficile aujourd hui”.
Dad of 3: “C’est vrai”.
It was day 4 of my Tour du Mont Blanc and I left Camping Grand Jorasses campground in Courmayeur at 6:30 and looped back to Rifugio Bertone on the main TMB route, and then climbed up Mont de la Saxe toward Col Sapin. This was the only section of trail that I backtracked, but I wanted to get up on the ridge to look across at the Mont Blanc massif. I had been leapfrogging a family (dad, 2 sons and daughter) most of the day and we had just begun the climb from Rifugio Elena up Grand Col Ferret. It was windy and I had my buff over my ears and windbreaker zipped up to trap in some warmth. This is the pass where the TMB crosses into Switzerland and is followed by a long descent to La Fouly where I would camp for the night.
My Wednesday evening British Airways flight leaving Portland was delayed by 2 hours and put my schedule of starting the Tour du Mont Blanc on Friday morning at risk. I was flying into Milan with my daughter where I would drop her off with her exchange family and then catch a bus to Chamonix. I checked the time when we landed in Milan and realized my window was closing. I still had to get my bag and go through customs, then get a ride to the bus station to catch the 23:30 bus that would get me to Chamonix by 4:00. I wasn’t going to make it.
Plan B was to spend the night at the host family’s house and then catch another bus Friday morning at 6:00 to arrive in Chamonix by 10:00. This would still give me enough time to procure a fuel canister, lighter and breakfast, and then take the short bus ride to Les Houches to start the TMB.
Les Houches to Les Contamines [9 miles, 2300′ vertical]
Day 1 began with a short lift ride up through the ski area in Les Houches. This wasn’t going to be a pure TMB as I was already planning to take the high route variations where possible and I had a reservation at Refuge Robert Blanc on day 2, which is not on the TMB. I didn’t feel the need to spend an extra hour walking up through the ski area to get to the trail proper.
The climb to Col de Tricot was pleasant with some peeks of Mt Blanc across the Bionnassay glacier. I was able to glimpse the Gouter hut sitting up on the ridge reflecting the sun off its silver siding. Gouter is the second hut on the Gouter route to the summit (after Tete Rousse), where most climbers sleep before summiting the next day. I really struggled with taking the week to climb some of the alpine routes around Mont Blanc, find partners through the Oak app, or hire a guide – or just solo the TMB in the 6 days that I had in Chamonix valley. I opted for the latter, but chose my route to keep me high on the mountain.
I paused often on the climb to drink my electrolyte mix and pick blueberries on the climb up to the col.
The descent to Refuge de Miage was my first introduction the steep descents on the Tour du Mont Blanc. Loose, rocky and very steep. The trail continued from Refuge de Miage, up over Mont Truc followed by another long decent down to Les Contamines.
I was making good time on a double track road and decided to eat something. Stupidly, I tipped my head back to toss some trail mix into my mouth and at the same time caught a toe on a rock. The speed and momentum I had going downhill pushed me forward and in a stutter step I caught myself, but then tripped again and my pack nudged me over the side of the trail. I threw my poles and tried to catch myself with my hands — there is a split second when you realize you’re going down. I landed on my side and with no poles, the right side of my face touched the ground. Not a slam, but enough to know I just landed on my face. I ended up sliding down the wooded bank on the side of the trail and stopped. I quickly retrieved my poles and climbed back up the the trail. The trail mix in my hand was gone – I didn’t find it. I stopped to look myself over to see if anything was broken, cut or bleeding. Just a knee scrape and some dirt on my face. Another hiker came down the trail a minute later, I told her what happened and asked her to take a look at my face to see if anything was awry. All good, but I was a shook. I vowed to never try to eat and jog again, and if I wanted to look at something or take a photo – stop. I was lucky because this stupid mistake could have ended the adventure.
I walked into Les Contamines, found the campground, took a cold shower, made my dinner and promptly feel asleep.
Les Contamines to Refuge Robert Blanc [9 miles, 6200′ vertical]
I awoke to heavy rain and condensation dripping through my single wall tent. In the middle of the night I took out my pack liner and rain jacket and draped them over my sleeping bag to keep the drops off my down sleeping bag. I got dressed and packed up my kit while still inside my tent. I got as much water off the tent and then stuffed it loosely into the outside pocket of my pack and started toward Refuge de la Balme. It rained on and off during the hike past Notre Dame de la Gorge as I steadily climbed back up into the alpine.
Lord – give me the strength to smite this jetlag with the stoke. In our mother the mountain’s name I pray, Amen.
I arrived at the intersection of the main TMB trail to Col du Bonhomme and the alternate path to Lac Jovet. The ridges were enveloped in clouds, it was raining lightly and I sat down to consider my options. This was the optional high route that would slice off the main TMB route to Les Chapieux and reconnect to the TMB at Col de la Seigne – where I would cross into Italy.
Another hiker was stopped and looking at his phone, so I approached and asked if he was intending to cross Col d’Enclave toward Refuge Robert Blanc? Indeed he was, but was concerned about the weather up high. The pass is at 9000 feet and the conditions would surely be a factor. We made an agreement to team up and see how it goes – and to retreat if necessary. This is where I met Jozsef.
Col d’Enclave is a steep scramble that begins from Lac Jovet and gets steeper and steeper as you get closer to the col. It begins by climbing from the lake up a scree slope, then turns into a scramble following cairns up to the ridge. Halfway up the rain turned to snow and thick clouds were blowing over the ridgetop. I had all my rain gear on and my poles stashed. At this point we weren’t retreating. I checked Gaia and saw that we only had about 600 more feet to the top. We agreed to continue and take it carefully and slowly. Following a short celebration we dropped into the valley and stopped for a short break on the lee side of boulder.
We made good time traversing to the 2nd col we needed to cross, Col de la Grande Ecaille. This consisted of a steep decomposed shale slope and black mud. More slippery than anything. Once surmounted, we got our first glimpse of Refuge Robert Blanc across the valley.
As Jozsef said the next morning – we both went to our respective bunk rooms and went into “standby mode”. I was so chilled and depleted, I changed into warm, dry clothes and lay under the duvet on my bunk until my body temperature climbed. The conversation in the refuge was excellent – in French and English. Dinner was a multi-course meal of bread, soup with a slice of raclette followed by vegetarian chili and rice. And lastly a delicious cake for dessert. We agreed to hike together until we got to Col de Seigne in Italy, where Jozsef would continue to his refuge and I would push on to Courmayeur.
Refuge Robert Blanc to Courmayeur [12 miles, 3000′ vertical]
The next morning dawned with broken clouds and views of the snow capped 10k foot peaks south of the Mont Blanc massif. We were on the trail just after 7 and scrambled in the shade across the canyons carved by the retreating glacier. In my research I knew this section would be challenging – some sections of trail consisted of chains and steel steps anchored into the rock. It was enjoyable scrambling and we soon rounded a buttress into the sun where I stopped to apply sun cream and change into a sun hoody.
We were approaching a steep wall of a 500-600 feet and weren’t sure how we were going to ascend it – there didn’t seem to be an obvious path to the top. Col de la Seigne was at the crest and then we would begin the long walk down Val Veny toward Courmayeur.
As with most slopes, when you’re looking directly at them – they appear steeper than they really are. No doubt this wall was steep, but the path had steel cables anchored to the rock to use as hand rails as we switchbacked up to the top. A fall here would have been problematic – the steel handrails were a welcome safety measure. That was that: we were at the top in Italy and crossed the col minutes later.
The alternate path to Robert Blanc rejoined the main TMB route here and the number of backpackers and runners increased as we started down the roman road.
We stopped for lunch at Rifugio Combal where I laid my tent out in the sun to dry and ate my packed lunch from Robert Blanc. Jozsef continued on to his Rifugio and I climbed up the ridge on my way to Courmayeur.
Courmayeur to La Fouly [22 miles, 6400′ vertical]
The previous day was short in mileage, but steep in elevation. I knew that I’d have to begin laying down big miles to get through Switzerland and back into France. I chose a campground that was a bit closer to the trail (Camping Grand Jorasses) with the idea to return to town in the morning and grind out the climb up to Rifugio Bertone. Talking to some other Americans waiting for the shuttle bus to Courmeyeur I learned the bus continues all the way up the valley one way before returning to town – so I opted to start walking and connect to the TMB and backtrack to see Rifugio Bertone and climb Mont de la Saxe. In my research I read the views from the ridge across Val Veni were stunning and I wanted to take a look. I didn’t realize at the time that I would also be climbing Grand Col Ferret the same day – I just didn’t realize the elevation. This day turned out to be a sufferfest.
I rolled into La Fouly tired and hungry around 7pm. Most campgrounds have hot showers and a place to wash clothes. I took a well-earned hot shower, washed my clothes, made dinner and fell sound asleep.
La Fouly to Col de la Forclaz [20 miles, 5800′ vertical]
I took a 14oz nalgene bottle with me to use as a cold soak container and packed my normal breakfast of oatmeal, walnuts, dried cherries, chia seeds, raisins. I also mixed in 30grams of protein powder. I took 6 bags of this mix for breakfasts each morning. Adding some water and shaking it up to mix the protein powder, it turned into a dense gruel that got me going in the morning and offered some recovery protein. I think next time I’ll try to find something to add to the mix for more calories.
I packed up quickly and got on the trail to Champex Lac – this part of the TMB through Switzerland passes through some small villages – in my research I read about all the options for buying food along the way, but I think this is only relevant if you’re taking 10 days or longer and doing short days. A rise and grind schedule didn’t correlate with sitting down to eat restaurant meals. The morning consisted of a mix of roads and smooth trails downhill until the climb to Champex Lac begins. After a steep climb of maybe 1000 feet you enter the town and pass some boulangeries and cafes. I stopped and bought 2 large sandwiches, a coke and a piece of blueberry pie. I was climbing Fenetre d’Arpette today and needed the calories.
Fenetre d’Arpette is a pass on the high route of the TMB, an alternate to the main route. The climb started gently up a meandering creek and through fields of wildflowers, then traversed a scree slope before pointing straight up to the col where it becomes a scramble over large boulders following the red and white Swiss trail markers. I stashed my trekking poles on my pack and began to climb. The final few hundred feet consisted of a series of steep switchbacks over loose stones. The weather was good and I didn’t have the same concerns as crossing Col d’Enclave 2 days earlier. The views from the top were stunning of the retreating glacier across Plateau de Trient. If there is one theme of this trip – it’s the evidence of climate change and the retreating glaciers. Sadly, I was glad to see this part of the world before the glaciers are gone forever.
After a long descent to Chalet du Glacier, the trail flattened out and I made my way to a campground at Col de la Forclaz. There was also a hotel and restaurant and I could have gotten a room and hot meal – but I opted to stay true to my dirtbag roots and camp in the meadow with the other TMB hikers and runners. Good conversation, a hot shower and dinner and I was asleep in my tent for the night.
Col de la Forclaz to Chamonix [14 miles, 6400′ vertical]
It was always a toss up of where to stop for the night. I was self contained and could have camped anywhere within the rules of the country I was in – but continuing to the evening I always ended up at a campground. My pace was close to having 2 shifts. Morning until I could find extra calories or eat the food I brought. One day I ended up eating one of my oatmeal / protein mixes for lunch, the others I bought a piece of pie or a sandwich – then the second afternoon shift where I would power on until the light started to fade. It worked for me but I can see how the TMB could also be done more casually covering less miles between stops, or carrying lighter gear and covering more miles per day. My pack was about 6kg or 13lbs. I was able to run when my food supply got lower in the latter half of the trip.
I left Col de la Forclaz early and descended into Trient where I passed La Peuty refuge and campground. I could have covered these couple of miles the night before, but it was nice to start fresh with a short descent before beginning the big climb up Col de Balme. The weather moved in as I gained altitude and the views were limited. The wind was blowing quite hard at Refuge du col de Balme and I didn’t stop or go inside, but continued in order to drop some altitude and get to a more sheltered area on the other side.
Dropping out of the clouds, I got a first glimpse of Mont Blanc and the Chamonix valley after returning to France. I carried on – stopping frequently to take pictures and take in the views. After climbing back up to Col de Posettes I began to pass more day hikers who had taken the lifts from the valley up to the alpine to hike for the day. My least favorite part of the TMB was descending from Aiguilettes de Posettes – it was just a never ending technical descent of small cliffs and wooden steps – it went on and on and on and on. And on and on down into the valley.
Just after 1 o’ clock I walked into Tre le Champ and sat down at a trailside restaurant to eat a big lunch. I was running out of food – I had 3 gels left and a handful of Hi-chews and needed to make a decision about where to end for the day. Should I push all the way for Les Houches? Bivouac near Lac Blanc? Descend to Chamonix? I had a hotel reservation for the next night, but not tonight. I also had no food left. I left Tre le Champ with a belly full of raclette and blueberry pie and begin the climb up to the ladders above Argentiere. This was the last part of the TMB that I wanted to cover – this part of the trail is a series of steel ladders and cables bolted to the cliff. You ascend and traverse and scramble up to Tete aux Vents where you can continue higher to Lac Blanc or begin the descent to La Flegere and Chamonix.
I asked an Italian day hiker when the last lift descended for the day from La Flegere. He asked Siri who told me 5:30. It was 4:45 and I could see the top of La Flegere in the distance. The lack of food made it an easy decision. I set out for the lift and rode down to Chamonix where I booked a room for the night, took a shower and went out to get a burger and a beer (highly recommend The Roster in Chamonix for “The Cheesy”).
That was my TMB. It was a full week – 5 and a half days. If I hadn’t left the main TMB to Refuge Robert Blanc I probably could have finished in 4 days. I had a good conversation with a pair of French runners at Col de la Forclaz – they were fastpacking the route in the same number of days as me, though they were trying to get to Les Houches on the last day. Now that I’m familiar with the route – I’d like to go back and run it in 4-5 days. I’ll ask my daughter if she’ll join me 🙂
I met a lot of great people. I immensely enjoyed being solo and setting my schedule for the day. With a food resupply, I could have continued on — it’s possible to connect to the Haute Route from the TMB and finish in Zermatt, though I think I’ll leave that for a future spring ski tour.
I left myself one day in Chamonix to shop for gifts and to take the ride up the Aiguille du Midi. The views from the top were amazing and I got up close and personal to the exit from the midi to climb the Cosmiques Aretes and Mont Blanc du Tacul – among other routes.
Now that I know the mechanics of getting around and a have a mental map of the terrain – I’d like to go back and climb. Mont Blanc proper, and some of the other alpine routes in the valley.
Fin.
Note on the images: I took over 600 photos and tried to pare them down to some representative shots.
Chris Rivard / Product Designer 